Monthly Archives: October 2012

Electrical Fits 2

So I ended up replacing the harness. I also replaced the ignition switch, brake switch, and headlight switch.

I installed a wiring harness out of a ’72 (same body style) that was in perfect shape. Ford changed the harness every year back then for reasons unknown. At least they kept the same color wires so that helped. I basically had to rework the wiring under the hood including all plugs.

Once I started looking at the wiring I had, I found more and more sections that were messed up. I found a blade fuse that was taped to some wires than covered in tape and hidden. I found wires cut and spliced to wrong wires (brake light switch was tapped into the column).

What I’m still working out:
-no heater fan (didn’t have time to look into it, was the last on the list)
-gages not working, 2 gage illumination lights not working (I think it’s a bad printed circuit and voltage stabilizer)
-the big problem is no brake lights and emergency flashers not working in the back (turn signals work in the back)

I’m running out of possible causes with the brake lights. I had this problem in the past so I think it has to be something I haven’t changed. The only thing left is the flasher switch.

I’ll update after I look through the wiring diagrams again.

 
The heater fan problem may be the motor itself. I didn’t have a working fan before all this and I swapped out the heater controls at the same time as the harness. I need to pull out the meter and see if I’m getting power to the switch and than to the fan motor.

Electrical Fits

My truck has been giving me fits all week.

Started out the starter was giving me trouble so I replaced the solenoid. That didn’t fix it so I replaced the starter.

After that I replaced the battery because it was dead. The new battery started the truck right up so I thought all was good. Next morning the new battery was dead and the regulator was making noise. I replaced the regulator last night and jumped the car. I went to crank the starter and it stuck on causing the battery terminal to smoke and heat up. I got it all disconnected before I caused a fire. I know there is a short somewhere.

I’m down to:
-Bad new solenoid
-bad ignition switch
-wiring short under the dash

I’m still stumping and will keep updating this.

Salvage Yard Run 2

I went to the salvage yard on Friday and got a good hood and wiper arms.  The hood needs to be stripped (painted with a brush) but it is otherwise in great shape.  My existing hood is dented at the front edge and filled with bondo.  Also the hood has a section of the supports cut out.
 
I picked up a new rear sliding window seal a week ago at the clip house.  I hope to get this installed soon.

Rear Wheel Well Rust

The car is back up on the lift so we can finish the underside. The rust in the rear fender wells is worse than we originally thought. He started tapping the rust (what we thought was just a couple of quarter size holes) with a very small hamer and the hose started getting bigger.

The upper front corner of the wheel well on the passenger side:
IMG_1865
This section isn’t bad on this side.

The upper front corner of the wheel well on the driver side:
IMG_1862
That lighter colored material behind the rust is actually paper on the inside of the car.

Upper control arm mount on the passenger side:
IMG_1864

Upper control arm mount on the driver side:
IMG_1863