Author Archives: Chris

Rear Wheel Well Rust Repair

Part one of the wheel well rust will show you what we started with.

The loose rust was first knocked out by lightly tapping the surrounding area with a small ball peen hammer.  It really helps to show the extent of the damage.  Getting out the vacuum and keeping things clean helps to keep the dust down.  Once all the loose rust has fallen off, brush the area with naval jelly and let it sit for 10-15 minutes.  Rince the naval jelly off with water after it has sat on the area.

The rust repair was started on the exterior in the wheel well itself since this is the area that is actually seen. All the interior rust is covered up by the bins and trim pieces so the repairs don’t need to look perfect just functional and clean.

Before the actual rust repair started, all the rear interior trim needed to be removed.  Sparks will fly during cutting, grinding, and welding.  The last thing anyone want to happen is to set the car on fire.  Also keep a fire extinguisher handy throughout the project.  Once the interior was remove from the rear of the car, welding blankets were draped over the seats and front carpet to protect the remaining interior.  An additional welding blanket was set on the wheel wells in the interior to keep sparks to a minimum.

We first started by cutting out the affected area cleanly.

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Also you can see all of the existing seam sealer was removed.  The removed metal has two bends in it that needed to be replicated.  The control arm bracket shown required 16 ga. metal.  All the other repairs used 20 ga. metal.  Welding was done with a MIG welder with gas using a stitching technique.

The welding at the top of the wheel well has compound curves and required multiple small pieces and scrap with compound curves left from a previous project were also used.  Once all the exterior welding was complete, it was time to move onto the interior.

First the rusted interior areas were cut out than thoroughly cleaned with a vacuum.  All the remaining rust was ground off the metal and treated with naval jelly.  All hidden areas were sprayed with a weld through primer to prevent future rust.

Once patch panels were welded in place, it was time for finishing.  A small amount of body filler was used so the repair would completely disappear.  More care with the filler was used on the exterior since the repairs can be seen when looking past the wheels into the wheel wells.  The interior did get some filler so the repair wouldn’t show through the interior panels.

After completion of the rust repair, the interior was painted to protect the metal from future rust.

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The exterior was seam sealed around the edge of the control arm mount and upper added structural support to prevent future rust.  The factory didn’t do a good job of seal sealing the wheel well causing the rust to begin with.  The wheel well was then primed and sprayed with undercoat.

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List is Shrinking

The car is finally getting there. I’m going to stop by and see it today.

What was left to do as of last weekend:
-paint hood, bumpers, cowl
-wet sand and polish hood, bumpers, cowl (after paint)
-install hood, bumpers, cowl, rear glass, etc (I will be helping)
-wheel well rust repair
-install exhaust heat shield (tabs to be welded with rust repair)
-repair and paint rear louvers (need to drill rivets and drop off at welder)
-wheel clear coat (already preped by me)
-side moulding install
-side moulding finish
-windshield moulding install
-pinstriping
-rear interior install (I will be doing, 1-2 hour total)
-install seals, emblems, stickers, etc (I will be doing)
-install fog lights and mud flaps (I will be doing)

 
Once the car is done with paint:
-alignment
-new tires
-replace carpet (have in garage)
-driver’s seat repair (sometime this year)
-metal sunroof headliner in brown (done with seat)
-rear suspension bushing replacement (bushings sitting in garage)
-paint rear suspension (have paint)

Looks like a long list but it isn’t as bad as it sounds.

Primed

The car is finally primed.  It is almost a year since the project has started and about 4 months since the last update.  Last night the car started to get the final layer of primer laid down.

As of this morning:

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Front Bumper Replacement

I installed a delay wiper switch in the truck on Friday. It came out of an ’86 F150 XLT. It was a very easy conversion. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiperdelay.htm

It’s nice to have more than 2 speeds.

I also hooked up the AM radio. I still need to figure out why I’m not getting any reception.

Saturday morning I installed the chrome bumper on the front.
Before:

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After:

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Electrical Fits 3

The truck is driving.

I went back though the electrical system and figured out why I haven’t had any tail lights. It was the turn signal switch. I have the switch temporarily fixed and the new one will be here on Wednesday. I went to the salvage yard on Saturday and picked up a good instrument cluster. I painted the needles and replaced the lens. My gauges are working except the amp guage. I need to do a once over on the wires and see if I have something plugged in wrong. I even have a working fuel gauge now.

Once I got the brake light ploblem figured out they wouldn’t turn off. It ended up that my new brake light switch was bad. I had to make a run to the parts store and swap it.

I also replaced the alternator and the wiring for the alternator.

What I have left to do electrically:
-amp gauge
-replace the heater fan
-install new turn signal switch
-wiring for radio

Electrical Fits 2

So I ended up replacing the harness. I also replaced the ignition switch, brake switch, and headlight switch.

I installed a wiring harness out of a ’72 (same body style) that was in perfect shape. Ford changed the harness every year back then for reasons unknown. At least they kept the same color wires so that helped. I basically had to rework the wiring under the hood including all plugs.

Once I started looking at the wiring I had, I found more and more sections that were messed up. I found a blade fuse that was taped to some wires than covered in tape and hidden. I found wires cut and spliced to wrong wires (brake light switch was tapped into the column).

What I’m still working out:
-no heater fan (didn’t have time to look into it, was the last on the list)
-gages not working, 2 gage illumination lights not working (I think it’s a bad printed circuit and voltage stabilizer)
-the big problem is no brake lights and emergency flashers not working in the back (turn signals work in the back)

I’m running out of possible causes with the brake lights. I had this problem in the past so I think it has to be something I haven’t changed. The only thing left is the flasher switch.

I’ll update after I look through the wiring diagrams again.

 
The heater fan problem may be the motor itself. I didn’t have a working fan before all this and I swapped out the heater controls at the same time as the harness. I need to pull out the meter and see if I’m getting power to the switch and than to the fan motor.

Electrical Fits

My truck has been giving me fits all week.

Started out the starter was giving me trouble so I replaced the solenoid. That didn’t fix it so I replaced the starter.

After that I replaced the battery because it was dead. The new battery started the truck right up so I thought all was good. Next morning the new battery was dead and the regulator was making noise. I replaced the regulator last night and jumped the car. I went to crank the starter and it stuck on causing the battery terminal to smoke and heat up. I got it all disconnected before I caused a fire. I know there is a short somewhere.

I’m down to:
-Bad new solenoid
-bad ignition switch
-wiring short under the dash

I’m still stumping and will keep updating this.